风格，往往是时代的缩影。在Gucci 2024秋冬男装大秀发布前夕，品牌创作总监Sabato De Sarno联合现代艺术博物馆（MoMA）建筑与设计部的高级策展人、MoMA的创始研发总监的Paola Antonelli推出《ANCORA MILANO 2 》，从米兰建筑和设计的视角切入，试图呈现每个建筑、空间、场景以及形体都是单独存在的，彼此之间同时又有着某种内在的一致关联，或趣味，或意志，或审美，它们被镜头所捕捉，虽为静态影像，却无不具有旺盛的生命力。The Style, always is the epitome of an era. On the eve of the Fall/Winter 2024 menswear show of the Gucci, Sabato De Sarno collaborated with Paola Antonelli, senior curator of Architecture and Design at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) and founding Director of Research and development at MoMA, published the 《ANCORA MILANO 2 》, which is according to the perspective of the architecture and deisgn in Milan, and it is an attempt to show that each building, space, scene and form exists alone. However, at the same time, there is some internal consistent relation between each other, or taste, or will, or aesthetic, which are captured by the camera. Although it is a static image, all of them have strong vitality. ▲ Book Cover of ANCORA MILANO 2 ▲ Paola Antonelli, MoMA的创始研发总监现代艺术博物馆（MoMA）建筑与设计部的高级策展人 记忆的追溯总是指向过去，而怀旧的回归则指向历史的某个侧面。借由粗野主义的不羁形象表达，使我们开启另一场属于个体的“新冒险”之旅，往日时光与当下不期而遇，进而重构了乌托邦式的未来愿景。多维视觉元素的叠加、并置、共存，建立起一条非常具体的视觉形象路径，回归到对寻常事物的重视，以此探索艺术、美学、文化和社会价值存在的时代意义。The trace of memory always points to the past, and the remain of nostalgia points to a certain aspect of history. Through the uninhibited image expression of brutalism, we open another journey of "new adventure" that belongs to individuals, the past encounters the present and reconstructs a utopian vision of the future. The superposition, juxtaposition, coexistence of the Multi-Visual features built a very specific visual image path and return to an emphasis on the ordinary. We are exploring the historical significance of the existence of artistic, aesthetic, cultural and social values through this way.
秀前接受VOGUE采访时，Sabato De Sarno说，“Gucci是一个非常意大利的品牌，有着悠久的传统。意大利工艺，意大利品味，我们曾丢失的，我希望它重现。意大利风格无疑是我创作故事的一部分。”
Speaking to VOGUE before the show, Sabato De Sarno said: "Gucci is a very Italian brand with a long tradition. Italian craftsmanship, Italian taste, those what we might lost, I want it back. Italian style is definitely part of my story."
The persistence and perseverance of things, Italian craftsmen have been sticking to it for generations, fighting time with complex hand-made methods, investing temperature in the production of every piece of fabric, every process, and every button, injecting perceptual poetry into the details, and concentrating the richness of content and emotion. Make the abstract concept, through the presentation of the carrier to the concrete, this expression is often a clever combination between the inner world and the support.
在一针一线的手作过程中，我们的世界观、人生理念、价值体系和对美的渴望，转化成了简洁、自由及很意大利式的结构语言，在时间的作用下，情绪、记忆、亲切以及材料的触感，生发出物像之外的意境追求。每一件都称得上作品，它们自身具有故事性，通过不同的叙述者或叙述方式，成为历久弥新的经典。In the process of hand-sewing, our world perspcetive of view, life concept, the system of value and the desire for beauty are transformed into simple, free and specific Italian structural language. Under the stimulation of time, emotion, memory, kindness and the touch of materials, which produce the pursuit of artistic conception outside the image. Each piece is a work of art, a story in its own world, a timeless classic through a different narrator or narrative method. 04品牌 Gucci一切皆镜像
The Mirroring Approach
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与去年9月份在Gucci Hub举办的Gucci 2024春夏女装秀互为“镜像”，在米兰老厂房Fonderia Carlo Macchi里举办的秋冬男装秀同样以“Ancora”命名。关于主题，Sabato De Sarno阐释道：“Ancora意味着再一次，但更加的个性；不是你失去的东西，而是你仍然拥有的东西；但你想要更多，因为它让你快乐。”
The concept of “Mirroring”is the Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 Women's show topic last September. In the Milan Old Factory in the Gucci Hub, Fonderia Carlo Macchi's autumn/winter menswear show was also named "Ancora". On the theme, Sabato De Sarno explains: "Ancora means once again, but with more individuality; Not what you've lost, but what you still have. But you want more because it makes you happy."
于大尺度的挑空场域之中，使周围有意暗淡，隐约的裸露立柱有着平衡的秩序，一条矩形“光路”形成的T台被突显出来，明亮与黑暗的强烈对比，构建出戏剧性的舞台效果。从系列设计到秀场布景、从秀场配乐到模特阵容，一切与我们所见之物形成“镜像”，同时反映所感受到的细腻情感，此次Sabato De Sarno则是通过男装的视角讲述。
The show venue is located in the large scale of the air field, so that the surrounding deliberately dim, vaguely exposed pillars have a balanced order. A runway formed by a rectangular "light path" is highlighted, and the sharp contrast between light and dark creates a dramatic stage effect。From the series design to the show set, from the show soundtrack to the model lineup, everything is a mirror image of what we see. At the same time, they are reflecting the delicate emotions felt, which is what Sabato De Sarno told through the perspective of men's wear this time.
▲ 「左右滑查看」秀场图
干练的剪裁、利落的廓形和简洁的造型，无不试图再现米兰的城市肌理、建筑场景和在地精神以及多元的生活方式，展现了其优雅极简主义倾向的延续。同时强调了品牌标志性元素背后的匠心手作，以精致而又略带颠覆性的手法重塑当代风范。履职之后，Sabato De Sarno带领Gucci开启了实用主义的新时代。The able cut, crisp silhouette and simple shape attempt to illustrate Milan's urban texture, architectural scene and local spirit as well as diversified lifestyle, showing the continuation of its elegant minimalist tendency. At the same time, it emphasizes the craftsmanship behind the iconic elements of the brand, reshaping the contemporary style in a delicate and slightly subversive way. After taking up, Sabato De Sarno has ushered in a new era of pragmatism at Gucci.
▲ Gucci 创作总监 Sabato De Sarno
▲ Paola Antonelli, MoMA的创始研发总监
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